Don't lose your cool over summer pests

Don’t lose your cool over summer pests

America’s most popular home crops, including tomatoes, corn, peppers, squash, melons and beans, demand the heat of the summer to produce their fruit. To get the most productive output from your garden during these months, you’ll want to be vigilant about a few things. First, make sure your plants are getting adequate water. Most plants need 1 to 1 1/2 inches each week. Soaker hoses are a great way to deliver this water to the plant through drip irrigation as the water seeps out slowly. This method is very effective because it places the water at the soil level. Evaporation is eliminated, the root zone is soaked and the foliage stays dry. Besides drought, the other major threat to your garden in the summer is pests. Fortunately, there are several ways to control any pests you may find. First, inspect your garden as often as you can to control populations and minimize damage as early as possible. Be sure to identify the bug you think may be a pest. Only about three percent of bugs and insects are considered pests. The others are beneficials (good for the garden) or neutral. Whenever possible, handpick any pests you can. Dropping the offenders into a cup of soapy water will finish the job. This works well for most pests including squash bugs, potato beetles, and cutworms. In my opinion, the second line of defense in pest control is to use the least-toxic methods available. This includes organic controls such as B.T or Bacillus thuringiensis. B.T is a bacteria that when ingested, paralyzes the digestive tract of certain insect larvae. B.T products are pest specific, so they don’t harm beneficial insects, and they are non-toxic to mammals. Next in your arsenal of pest defenses should be insecticidal or horticultural oils. These products are derived from plant and petroleum oils, which kill eggs and immature stages of insects by blocking their supply of oxygen. Don’t apply these products to plants during times when temperatures are below 40 or above 85 degrees or when plants are under stress. Applications at these times can damage the plants. Insecticidal soaps are another good choice, comprised mostly of fatty acids. These products act on contact by paralyzing the insects and work well for pests such as aphids, whiteflies and spider mites. The best time to apply insecticides is in the evening. At this time, most pollinating insects have retired for the night, and pollen-filled flowers have closed until morning. By then, much of the toxicity has broken down, and exposure to beneficials will be greatly reduced. Do not apply non-selective pesticides in the morning as this would certainly wipe out many lady beetles, soldier bugs and pollinating insects such as honey and bumblebees. Summer is a great time to garden. Remember, knowledge is power. The more you know about gardening, the more confidence you’ll have to accept and welcome the challenges you’ll face.

Help your garden make the most of summer's heat

Help your garden make the most of summer's heat

America's most popular home crops including tomatoes, corn, peppers, squash, melons, and beans demand the heat of the summer to produce their fruit. To get the most productive output from your garden during these months, you'll want to be vigilant about a few things. First, make sure your plants are getting adequate water. Most plants need 1 to 1 1/2 inches each week. Soaker hoses are a great way to deliver this water to the plant through drip irrigation as the water seeps out slowly. This method is very effective because it places the water at the soil level. Evaporation is eliminated, the root zone is soaked, and the foliage stays dry. Besides drought, the other major threat to your garden in the summer is pests. Fortunately, there are several ways to control any pests you may find. First, inspect your garden as often as you can to control populations and minimize damage as early as possible. Be sure to identify the bug you think may be a pest. Only about three percent of bugs and insects are considered pests. The others are beneficials (good for the garden) or neutral. Whenever possible, handpick any pests you can. Dropping the offenders into a cup of soapy water will finish the job. This works well for most pests including squash bugs, potato beetles, and cutworms. In my opinion, the second line of defense in pest control is to use the least toxic methods available. This includes organic controls like B.T or Bacillus thuringiensis. B.T is a bacteria that when ingested, paralyzes the digestive tract of certain insect larvae. B.T products are pest specific, so they don't harm beneficial insects, and they are non-toxic to mammals. Next in your arsenal of pest defenses should be Insecticidal or Horticultural Oils. These products are derived from plant and petroleum oils, which kill eggs and immature stages of insects by blocking their supply of oxygen. Don't apply these products to plants during times when temperatures are below 40 or above 85 degrees or when plants are under stress. Applications at these times can damage the plants. Insecticidal Soaps are another good choice, comprised mostly of fatty acids. These products act on contact by paralyzing the insects and work well for pests such as aphids, and whiteflies, and spider mites. Lastly would be the use of synthetic insecticides. These are the very effective manmade chemicals you buy in garden centers and go by many different names. Most of these products are nonselective meaning they kill any insect they come in contact with, bad or beneficial. They can also be highly toxic to humans and other animals. If you choose to use these in your garden, be sure to always read and follow the label instructions. The best time to apply insecticides is in the evening. At this time, most pollinating insects have retired for the night, and pollen-filled flowers have closed until morning. By then, much of the toxicity has broken down, and exposure to beneficials will be greatly reduced. Do not apply non-selective pesticides in the morning as this would certainly wipe out many lady beetles, soldier bugs and pollinating insects such as honey and bumble bees. Summer is a great time to garden. Remember, knowledge is power. The more you know about gardening, the more confidence you'll have to accept and welcome the challenges you'll face.

Compost and Leaf Mold

Compost and Leaf Mold

All soils benefit from the addition of homemade garden compost and leaf mold - add them when you are digging or planting or use them as a mulch. Both are easy to make and they don't cost a thing.

You will need something to contain the compost heap - either a commercial bin or a homemade one, such as a timber or wire-netting enclosure. Compost bins also are easily constructed from spare timber.

Almost any garden and kitchen waste can be turned into good compost if properly mixed. However, you should never add meat or fat - you will only attract rats and other vermin.

One of the secrets of ensuring rapid decomposition is not to allow large quantities of one particular material to build up in the heap.

Leave of deciduous trees and shrubs can be composted on their own to make leaf mold, which is rich in plant foods, especially nitrogen. A fast, space-saving alternative is to pack the leaves in black polyethylene bags that have been perforated to allow in air. Tied at the top and kept in an out-of the way corner of the garden, the sacks will form good leaf mold that can be used the following spring. Leaves that are kept in open bins may take longer to decay.